takigi noh

So yesterday I went to a Takigi-Noh performance (sort of - more on that later) at Makuhari Messe - I seem to be going to Makuhari a lot recently, though I suspect that it's one of the places I'll end up going to a lot. Also, it turns out it's actually cheaper for me to take the 10-minute train ride from my station to Kaihin-Makuhari station than it is to take the bus from my apartment to Chiba Station, or to go one stop on the monorail. Weird.

Anyway, I had gotten two tickets for this performance from work, or rather from the economic planning section, since at the welcome party I went to a few weeks ago somebody had mentioned that they could get me tickets if I was interested (and who I found out today was apparently sitting right behind me? I had no idea, haha). I must admit I don't have an active interest in Noh (still don't really know much about it either), but it's one of those things that I figure I should experience at least once, like kabuki, since it's such a traditional Japanese art.

Originally Hirata-san said she was planning to go with me, but she didn't think she could make it because of work, so I invited my WI-ALT friend James to come with me instead. We met up at a Badass Coffee (yep, that's it's name!) for a little bit and then headed over to Makuhari Messe, where we found out that the performance, which was supposed to be outside, was moved inside, presumably for fear of rain (though it was nice and cool out and didn't rain at all. T_T). So we went inside the event hall, which is really huge! According to their website it holds 9000 people, and I had fun imagining what it would be like to go to a concert there.

When we got there most of the seats had already been taken, so we ended up near the back (but in the middle, at least). Neither James or I had any idea of what to expect, and even though there was a synopsis in the program and they explained it in both Japanese and Chinese (since this performance was in celebration of the 40th anniversary of Chinese-Japanese diplomatic relations, a little bit ironic in light of current events), I still didn't understand any of it, haha. The show started off with a kyougen, or a short comedy sketch, about two guards (I think?) who got caught and tied up by their master for drinking his alcohol after he left, but who still managed to drink his alcohol even while tied up once he left them again. I only managed to understand a few words, but I managed to get the basic gist of it, at least.

And then the actual Noh performance started! I had tried to read the synopsis in the program and managed to get something about Buddhism, crossing a bridge, and a performance, which I mentioned to James, who doesn't speak Japanese. So we thought we had an idea of what to expect, but as it turns out even so we both had no idea what was going on, haha. The performance was very slow-paced and involved more music than movement, and most of the performers spent their time on stage behind two trees, which James and I found very perplexing. We both came out of the performance a little bit unsure of what exactly we had just seen and clearly didn't get any of it, haha. Still, I think it was definitely a good experience and we were both glad that we had gone to see it!

On the way out a reporter from the Yomiuri Shinbun (one of the biggest newspapers in Japan) heard us speaking English and turned around to ask us some questions! Although really he just asked if we were there as students (nope) and then our impressions, to which I said something about it being interesting and a good experience though not really what we were expecting, not that I knew what we were expecting (it was about that coherent, too, haha) and scribbled down about one word before leaving. So I don't think we'll be showing up in the newspaper at all, but it was kind of cool to have a newspaper person talk to us.

After that we got a late dinner in Makuhari before heading home. When I got back, I was determined to find out a little bit more about the performance and what it was about (because really, it was totally beyond me), and some internet research revealed that the performance we'd seen was about a Buddhist priest who saw lions dancing on a stone bridge across a deep ravine. So I had gotten the general idea right, at least. Also, it turns out that the most unique part about Takigi-Noh is that it's performed outside by firelight (by bonfires), but because they had moved the performance inside, we didn't get to see any fire. It's a shame because I think that would have changed the experience, and also because apparently there aren't that many opportunities to see Takigi-Noh (with the fire and everything). Sad. But I can still say I have seen a Noh performance, and it was definitely more exciting than my usual Tuesday night, so really I can't complain!